Moody 34 Need info. Looking at a couple of Moodys

Roland Lowe

Registered Guest
I’m new to this brand but increasingly impressed as I continue to research it. In the process of upgrading from 26’ boat which we have outgrown. Currently contemplating a 1985 M34 or a 1986 M346. This will be for me and wife with occasional visitor.
Requesting input from members who can provide specific areas to focus on. For some background , the 346 is about a 2 hr drive away…nice looking and clean boat. The 34 is about 1 hr flight away so repositioning would be a logistical challenge. Also nice looking boat.
Want to know if there any immediate “deal breaker” items to watch out for.
Thanks in advance for insight.
Rol1964
 
Hi Roland,

To start with, your capability to assess a boat depends on your knowledge and experience. If you are unsure, you may involve a surveyor.

That said, a boat that looks clean and "fully intact" is already a good starting point.
You might want to have a close look at the engines, the sails (often a neglected item even in surveys) and everything that could leak (hatches, windows, chainplates). Also, the fuel tank is made of milled steel and might require a replacement at some point of time.
Depending on your location and usage pattern, a holding tank might be also of relevance.

Electrics and electronics is another topic of interest, e.g., have there been updates, are additions/expansions done well etc.

Good luck with your search.

Ville
 
Thx for reply. If either of the boats in question passed my own inspection then I would engage a certified surveyor. I have lots of experience with all things mechanical. I was however unaware of the steel fuel tank...that's the sort of info I'm looking for.
Are the chain plates particularly susceptible / how difficult to access and inspect? Any rudder issues or blistering history?
 
Roland, we have a M31 but similar age and construction. The chain plates can be difficult to inspect because it means removing the shelves. There may be inspection hatches fitted by a previous owner in the cupboards, but if not then quite difficult. The main problem with them is the seal were they come through the deck. There is a stainless steel plate on the deck entry under which is sealant. This needs cleaning out periodically and sealing again with butyl tape or butyl mastic. There is 2 each side plus the baby stay in front of the mast.

The good news is Moody's are high quality yachts and that includes the original hull lay up which was done in a temperature controlled environment by Marine Projects, now Princess Yachts in Plymouth. Osmosis is rare. If its a fin keeled version, then inspection of the keel bolts straight forward. If its bilge then the water tanks are in the way. Keel bolts are mild steel and if there has been water in the bilge will likely have surface rust looking far worse then they actually are.

It will probably come down to price and the condition of items like the engine, sails, electronics etc.
 
Yeah that Thornycroft sketches me out a bit…not gonna lie. I know that a well maintained marine diesel can hit many thousands of hours before major OH but I’m in N America and I can see that parts availability would be challenging.
 
Hi Roland,

Firstly the babystay. In my view, the way Marine Projects chose to attach babystays to the deck, in those Moody's that have a babystay, was poor engineering. Basically, a short stainless steel tube was moulded transversely to the underside of the deck. Before installation, this tube had a stainless steel plate fastened to it, welded if I remember correctly. which protrudes up through a slot cut in the deck to create the point for anchoring the stay. Over the years, the relatively high loads in the babystay cause cracking in the deck around the hard point and water starts to get in, wetting the balsa core and so weakening the deck. Remember, babystays were invented to save money by doing the job of two forward lower shrouds, so really need to be well secured.

The shrouds are well attached to their stainless steel chainplates which are bolted to marine ply (?5/8" or 3/4") part bulkheads which, in turn, are securely tabbed to the hull from deck height right down to below the saloon settee bases. the top end of the chainplates stick out through slots in the side decks so the shrouds can be secured to them. As Pete says, the slots through the decks are sealed by little stainless plates screwed to the deck with self tappers and sealed with some mastic underneath. The original mastic used had a tendency to dry out and crack, so letting deck water penetrate. If not attended to, the water would eventually saturate the marine ply of the part bulkhead and start rot. In extremecases, the bolts fixing the chainplate to the part bulkhead can tear through the rotten timber at which point the wider lower part of the chainplate tries to pass through the deck with messy consequences and a possible loss of the rig,

Access to the chainplates for serious work, requires removal of the beautiful teak shelving or cabinets (depending which model). For inspection, many members have cut ~3" dia. access holes in the boxes surrounding the chainplates and covered them with plastic vents, dinghy hatches or offcuts from teak decking jobs screwed in place. The more tech happy folk have bought an endoscope to make the inspection easier and more thorough, as outlined in this thread:


A good way to detect incipient problems in either the baby stay or shroud chainplates is to take a straight edge with you when you inspect the boat. If you detect any bulge in the deck immediately around the chainplates, more investigation is warranted.

In either case, repair is possible and has been done, both professional and diy. Guidance for repair is available to members on this site, but a professional job in either case will cost, largely becauseof the access problems consuming labour time.

Peter
 
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