Moody 40 (late 90s early 00s) 40/46 Construction

V

Victor Seager

We are looking at centre cockpit Moody's in the 40ft range built in the late 90's. I've sailed a fair bit on some friend's Moody 336 which seemed very solid and who have since upgraded to a Moody S38 which seemed equally well built as well as being gorgeous below deck, I've not sailed on the S38. I know Bill Dixon designed these boats and is well regarded, but I'm struggling to find any definitive/official information about the construction.

The following questions relate specifically to a 1998 Moody 40, and also a 46 which looks almost identical apart from being that bit larger and more tankage etc. I would really like to know:

* What is the hull construction method, hull to deck joint etc?
* How is the keel attached
* Are they insulated, will we have condensation issues? (we open hatches but often this doesn't avoid it completely and it's the UK, it rains)
* Do they slam or slap at all in choppy weather at all
* Are they well balanced? Where are the tanks located?
* Is there room to fit an additional water tank (Moody 40) and perhaps a generator?

Any advice will be appreciated.

Many thanks
 
Hi Victor,

I can speak only for the Moodys up to the M44, built by Marine Projects of Plymouth (now Princess Yachts). The hulls are of solid, hand laid grp, with cored frames and stringers, laid up in a temperature and humidity controlled shop under Lloyds supervision. Marine Projects was amongst the earlier British boatbuilders to adopt isophthalic gel coat (the date is on here somewhere, but I forget exactly where, but certainly before 1990) for its greater resistance to osmosis. The decks are cored with end grain balsa, replaced with marine ply in way of original deck fittings. Take a close look at any deck fittings which don't look original. The decks also feature the best moulded in non-slip finish I have ever seen.

The keels are attached to a fairly long and broad grp keel stub by M24 mild steel studs tapped into the cast iron keels. Above the stub are ~5mm backing plates and single M24 mild steel nuts. Many surveyors criticise the state of these studs / nuts due to corrosion from salt bilge water but, on drawing studs, they are almost invariably found to be in perfect condition. The number and spacing of the studs ensures that they are relatively low stressed compared to the keel bolts of modern designs with short narrow keels.

The boats are lined throughout except for glazing and a few places in cupboards and the fore and aft cabins, where they are carpeted (is that insulation? No yacht is free from condensation - as you say, the secret is good ventilation. The high quality cabinetry fitted throughout sometimes makes access to the boat's systems inconvenient.

I find Moodys much less prone to slamming than most yachts of today, but I have felt the slams of our Moody 425 trying to motor into a force 8 in the channel. She is better behaved under sail. I imagine a Rustler would slam less, but the Moody are better than most contemporary designs in this respect.

Bill Dixon is a legend for the fine balance of the helm on his boats. He also designs with a high form stability, so the boat tends to sail flatter than most (certainly flatter than a Rustler!). Going to windward, if your instinct for when to reef comes from a racing bakground, you will be surprised how she speeds up when you reef. They are pretty insensitive to distribution of weight on board but the water tanks are located under the two saloon seteees.

The fuel tank is either under the aft berth or ahead of the engine (doesn't help engine access) in both cases fairly central.

Plenty of people have fitted extra tanks, be it additional water or holding (not included as standard) and extra batteries. There is loads of extraspace under sole boards and, often, outboard between the cabinetry and the hull. The best way to learn of the tried and tested way of doing tese jobs is to join this Association which gives you access to the wonderful Information Exchange. Incidentally, Most long distance passage makers find the tankage adequate and provide extra drinking water by carrying bottled water and extra washing water from a watermaker.

Moodys of this size generally have ample spare room in the engine space to accommodate a generator above the engine, however this doesn't help engine access for maintenance. Alternatively, you could sacrifice some space in the ample lazarette.

I believe for the Moody 46 and bigger, use was made of cored hull sections above the waterline, but I'm sure others can answer better than me on that topic.

Hope this helps.

Peter.


Peter.
 
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Thanks for the info Peter that's really helpful.

Does anyone know of any source for the original manuals/brochures for the Moody 40 MkII (~1998)? I found these but it's for the older layout.

Moody 40 | Moody Owners Association

moodyowners.org moodyowners.org
 
Hi Victor,
we sail a Moody46 from 1998 for 11 years now. The hull is even more solid as it used to be on earlier models. Moody's tried to outdo Oyster at this time....Only the M49 has a cored hull above the waterline. Osmosis is no issue due to Isophtalic resin. Deck is balsa cored and the very thick teakdeck is glued, nearly no screws.
Keel is attached with 14 studs from mild steel onto a keel stub as Peter describes.
Water and fuel are down below the floor resp. behind the starecase and near the center of gravitiy.
A genset is installed on a balcony above the gearbox.
Behaviour in sea is perfect, even more solid than the smaller and lighter models. Our boat is about 17t with water an fuel and all provisions aboard. So she needs bft 2-3 to get moving.
Insulation is rather good, but we are sailing in the med and never encountered a british winter...
Generally the ratio of price and value for money is actually very good.
Have a look at one!
Rainer
 
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